For many years, in all kinds of men’s clothes, form quality maintain the long and fundamental is suit. Due to suit the orthodox and solemn style represents man’s social status, essential strength and the personality charm, after 200 years is still prevalent. With the development of social economy and textile garment technology progress, sewing suit fabrics and other materials used for a lot of change, but the basic requirement of basic sewing suit has not changed.

Since the 1990 s, suit design and cutting although appeared some changes, but also just reflected in suit style innovation. Compared with the traditional suit, modern new style suit the most obvious change performance in production process and dress ideas. First of all, it USES unit quality is light, soft, drapability and good quality of the thin pure wool fabrics. These fabrics color and design more rich, bright, light, natural, extremely rich contemporary sense. Second, the cutting process is European popular “soft cutting”, make the appearance of suit more smooth and natural. Suit the shoulder is round and thin shoulder pads, shoulder, line is no longer rigid; In the waist, through the waist line of relax, than the average suit more loose and comfortable, are naturally stick put oneself in streamline; Arm place can stretch freely, garment body also relatively conventional long suit, appearance more optional, not rigid, not stiff. Third, in the use of materials, pay attention to is made of high quality materials, such as common fusible interlining, black carbon lining and lining and accessories, feel more soft, light, conformal resistance, good wear at ease. Fourth, suit design trend is grave and novel, in the traditional single row 2 grain button and double row 4 grain button, based on the development of variety of three grain of buttons, 4 grain button or 6 grain buckle, coat open pendulum vent or from the vented, patch pocket diversified design, look more accord with modern style, can show a man’s masculinity, and can reflect in recent years men’s clothing to elegant, gentle, kind and the pursuit of style.

This paper focus on the international fashion in recent years new style suit, the paper focuses on the men’s suit different sewing process with lining of basic requirements and main characteristics.

Men’s suit coat lining part and requirements
As is known to all, a suit quality quality, mainly by its internal structure and material determined. Although fashion in constant change, but each type of suit is still by using lining cloth to build it “skeleton” and “backbone”, with the aid of fabrics with good compatibility between lining cloth, to create a beautiful suit the external form.

Because of the different suit design and the manufacture process area differences, sewing suit jacket chooses lining cloth and the variety of match line to the site and the size of lining and so on also will some of difference, but the conventional suit match line to place and facing specification is basically the same.

Suit manufacture craft and the overlap line mode
At home and abroad on a suit of the production process, summarized up basically has 3 kinds, namely the traditional process, half the traditional craft and modern technology, the corresponding suit of overlying lining also have three different ways.

The traditional process suit
The traditional craft suit, also called wool lining suit. This technology at home and abroad is senior custom suit and high-grade brand suit preferred production process. The traditional process using wool suit lined by lining in a way that suit the big body, lighter head and noodles and other parts don’t fusible interlining, all use high-grade quality black carbon lining. Suit in the chest and shoulders by using high quality black carbon line, high density haircloth and chest wool combination and into the breast of the lining. In this process sewing suit, not only a garment body fit, wearing comfortable, and suit the appearance of the line is fluent, stereo sense is very strong. Especially suit chest forming is very full, stiff and smooth. Because of this suit of sewing is manual operation is given priority to, work very fastidious, production cost time more, choose fabrics and accessories are very high, so suit production cost is very high, which is about general suit cost 5 ~ 6 times.

Half the traditional process suit
Half the traditional process is in the traditional suit process on the basis of simplified and form, it remained the main features of the traditional process, in this process make suit also called half hair lining suit. Its overlying lining usually have two kinds: one kind is in the front part of the assemblies suit adhesion have spinning fusible interlining for body lining, and barge head lining is used black carbon lining; Another is in a suit before the assemblies are adhesive spinning fusible interlining for body line, and then in the big ShenYao section above the site selection of quality black carbon lining the chest line, lighter head lining also use the same black carbon lining. In the pattern facing to the main chest piece and barge head lining together cutting, will also be lighter head lining and main chest lining were cut and overlap line, the personage inside course of study is usually called after a kind of practice for “dig barge head” process. In the chest and shoulders also choose high quality black carbon line, high density haircloth and chest made of wool combination chest piece. In this craft suit, garment body relatively light hail is fluent, wearing aggregates, comfortable. Compared with the traditional process suit, its way of doing relatively simple, save time, processing cost reduced, but the garment conformality than the traditional process suit.

Modern technology at home and abroad is refers to the application of advanced assembly line equipment, batch production suit used technology, using the craft suit also called fusible interlining suit. The modern technology and traditional and half the traditional process the biggest difference is that, the first is the suit body lining and barge head lining are in a spinning fusible interlining alternative black carbon lining, and big body and barge head position fusible interlining and usually together by cutting and bonding; The second is suit chest and shoulders overlying lining widely used pre-process finalize the design made combination chest piece (slitting line), according to the process requirements on the assembly line directly sewing assembly; The third is the suit brought commonly used brought bottom lining to plasticity better bring bottom? To pull the finalize the design, can make the suit brought department modelling and stick put oneself in another’s position effect is better. Modern technology suit matching of the lining cloth for light, soft, elastic, in order to fully reflect the modern suit light hail, pretty, soft and comfortable to wear requirements. The modern technology and traditional suit absorbed the essence of the traditional craft half suit, most of the sewing operation with a high degree of automation equipment instead of manual operation, especially suitable for all kinds of professional suit and ordinary suit of batch production. Due to suit the main production process, such as cutting, adhesive, sewing and ironing and adopts advanced mechanical equipment processing, not only improve the suit of production efficiency, but also significantly reduce the production cost.