The human body is the source of costume design

Clothing is for human body design, further understanding of the human body and human activity characteristics is the study of clothing important for beginners.

A professional garment board design personnel to learn is the human body and the proportion of the human body contour structure characteristics. The proportion of the human body is to point to different parts of body length and different parts of body fat thin relationship. The outline of human body structure characteristic is refers to the human body surface fluctuation change law of certain structure. Especially for human dress plays a big constraints of the key parts of human body, like the human body shoulder, neck, back, chest and many other key parts of the shape and texture characteristics and movement characteristics.

To understand the human body, because clothing must satisfy the human body two big functions requirements: first, clothing must meet to beautify human body function; Second, clothing must satisfy the human body motor function.

Clothing is not on the human body appearance shape simple copy, but the human complex outline simplification, level change and dress up, modification, etc. Dress according to the human body is made, and are not completely equal to the human body.

The human body surface is very complicated, if without the help of professional equipment can only to general measurement. If without the help of professional a large amount of research achievements, it is difficult to overall grasping accurately to the human body.

The human body is the source of clothing structure, but for ordinary learners abandoned clothing structure design and simple to do human studies but not was necessary completely.

Board technology to learn to rise from the prototype

What is advanced plate-making technology?

We must pay attention to the two attributes: one is on the structure must be able to freely change, kaleidoscope, follow one’s inclinations, The other is the detail structure processing is to reach the designated position, have great originality. Summarized up, only use agile, “not rigid, good change” clothing technology is the real meaning of senior clothing technology.

Garment board difficult? A practical technology, has its own complexity, also has its own regularity, can seize the essential thing, and can quickly grasp key point, you can learn to understand, do it well. The key is to learn about nature, learn law, learn principle. Important is the study of the source, then can saves time and effort, not feel difficult. Many beginners from a a clothing design study on, learn some more certain things, it is very necessary, but also very traditional, but in the structure change often dumb. The study of a clothing design cutting, master the clothing of some of the main point, will begin to learn deeper structure rules and structure principle, so as to learn to structural change, to final solution structure questions, to gradually into the technical state.

Because of their late start, the weak economic foundations, our country in the clothing technology gap is very obvious, especially our country in the clothing standards need to be further improved; China’s clothing science and technology research efforts need to be further strengthened; Especially in the clothing technology to remove dregs, eliminating, discern right and wrong.

All in all, the Chinese dress is in break garment board the old system, establish and perfect the new system very stage, there is no perfect, clothing plate-making technology is at a very important development rise phase, Chinese clothing technology to establish and perfect the system still need more time.

When at this time, the technology is hard to avoid confusion. Especially we have many textbooks involves structure design principle and method, of which about similar or alien structure design method each are not identical, even if the industry experts on the details of the differences and changes a little helpless, structure design of the beginner is overwhelming. I find some students in teaching due to the actual work experience, was originally very concise but complicates things very pain, And some students the basic knowledge is held, in the practical work or system not a good plate type; Some students repeatedly learning all kinds of board method, a teacher to teach a set of method, and finally a variety of mixed together, walk a lot of curve road; Someone says, want to be a good clothing plate-making division, must have six aspect of quality:

One is to master proportion cutting method, but not completely copy traditional rate. The second is to master garment prototype, playing good clothing prototype of backing; The third is to study the European plate type, absorb the board prototype essence, and Asian plate type are cited, adopted by us; Four is to know clothing technology, in the clothing board to law concering, also want to know the concourse, the board and combine; The fifth is to spend to study human proportion and national dress standards, do understand rules, is good at change, is good at using; Six is to grasp market trends and clothing, adjust structure design concept, make plate type and the needs of the market standards.

For beginners, “system board” is to learn??????? This must be made clear. The above six quality requirements do have certain truth: proportion cutting method is commonly used in everyone and always with things, don’t know it is difficult to understand Chinese clothing global, they don’t know other people are doing, there is no lateral comparability; Learning clothing prototype, is a good clothing base, mastering clothing and human relationship, establish clothing form the basis of the key, is all interested in learning clothing plate-making technology is preferred; Learning the plate is for Asian plate type of supplement, all kinds of plate type are used, can help you better understand the complicated human body and the clothing structure of the inner link between; And familiar with clothing process and clothing learning another important foundation, is the correct grasp plate type details, the correct processing board and sewing relations, improve the quality of plate type important way; Detailed and specific study of the human body structure ratio is to improve the system board standardization degree of necessary guarantee, then grasp the market change and market trend trend, can we make our plate type conform to the needs of the public, to reflect the needs of the market. So, learning board is the organic combination of diversity and comprehensive, is a can improve and strengthen process, need to board masters to continuously pursue, dynamic learning, improve the dynamic.

The task is various, the requirement is mutiple level, but our time is limited, especially those who just began to learn garment board, could not only from one aspect of the study. Although many masters according to his many years of experience, summed up a lot of reliable board method, is worth us study repeatedly grasp.

 

But, the speech out houses, how can a a round to learn?

One thing is certain, each kind of method is clothing family treasures, is the master of clothing sedulously pursue results, but our country clothing business shoulder heavy responsibilities, fusion every bit strengths, to make our country clothing business to a new level, and to make learners to master the clothing technology panorama, comprehensive knowledge acquisition system. So, learning must use the history, development, the overall point of view, and see what method fully reflects the essence of clothing, with reliability; See what board method there is lack of, have certain limitations; Especially should pay attention to research learning board method when and what conditions can only, etc.

In fact, the right way, the study is to a detour. Here is an example to illustrate this problem, for instance, in the clothing shoulder slope problems, China’s clothing have different opinions: some people are in favor of using constant set down shoulder method, some women fall before the shoulder as 4.5 cm, then fell shoulder as 4 cm; And some material is recommend more fall shoulder, the women’s former shoulder slope as 6 cm, shoulder after a 5 cm; And some of the method to determine the chest, according to the bust size calculation grow shoulder value; And some have strong column suggest using method of determining the Angle, it is considered that the fall shoulder method is not science, special work out when the Angle of manner and method to determine, but later there now, now. 7 determination method. Of course, these methods are in order to solve some specific problems and carry out, is the solution to the problem of some specific methods, is the shoulder slope different change condition of different forms, has certain applicable scope, it is of great value, some problems can use this method to solve quite good, but some problems may be in that solution is better. But the headache is: there is always a reason! These different methods, different sizes, different methods, source reason and starting point is not very clear, make heads or tails of beginners. Was not a very complicated “shoulder slope determine problem” was stirring confused, how to learn? How to master? Therefore, we in the study will be looking for rule: first of all you should be able to understand the garment shoulder slope and what factors have relationship? On board the most basic board method is??????? Looking for root, make clear associated with all factors, such as: shoulder after provinces, the bust dart change, shoulder slope should be how to change and so on. In this way, we can be really know shoulder slope to determine the law, to reduce the blindness in learning to “with changeless should change”, master the correct structure. So I suggest you have a certain clothing basis, learning must start from the source, from haven’t interfuse style characteristics, has not been covered in the style of “basic structure” learn to rise, to find the essence of the clothing structure, based on the root to solve all kinds of structural problems.

This is about to involves clothing prototype this important problem.

What is the clothing prototype? Clothing prototype is accord with human body basic dress requirements, no design features of the most basic garment pattern. And this is the most basic garment pattern structure was originally through human investigation, three-dimensional cutting and repeated sample get.

First select a series of shape as the research object, the selection of a specific material, in the human body directly stereo clipping modelling, then the part sewing side adjustment, repeated contrast, carries on the comprehensive, of course, also through various research improvement and long-term use of adjustment, and finally determined that a pattern, the pattern: bust lean degree is appropriate, various proportion proper collocation, its effect is generally stereo clipping is difficult to achieve, is the best results climbing-inspired cut. Will use to this pattern, as garment board template, will further establish the clothing and the human body the basic relationship between, on the basis of this relationship to further processing different style of garment pattern, thus discoveries and inventions use this pattern for clothing structure change of the basic method, forming a complete system, we need clothing prototype and prototype board method was born.

A prototype, clothing every parts of the cutting had according to. With this basis, we also will not happen chaos on the garment technology.

The prototype system plate method, it has been very mature in foreign countries, and the system in our country just is only the beginning, but in recent years, more and more people through the value. Japanese culture type prototype because founded early, after many times revised, and the Japanese and Chinese body shape is very close, we can borrow. This method has the advantage of using prototype can have the following.

One solution is to determine the clothing and measures. The prototype and measures is one of the most reliable reference, it through the solid sample, again and again modification, and after a long trial and decided, very well accord with the ideal human basic dress requirements, solved the difficult problem of draping quantization process;

The second is a good way to solve the plane board of three-dimensional modeling problems. Due to the prototype is made and the cutting test results, the neckline, shoulder, sleeve, etc are directly from human acquisition, and repeatedly check, make the board in the board to familiar with clothes and body of the basic relationship between, a reliable reference, so that their side control prototype, part drawing pattern, it is easy to, very directly and quantitatively in board in full and human contrast, form a tight contact body board methods, improve the system board speed, but also improve the quality of the board.

The third is to plane clothing structure design provides a source. Clothing structure should be based on the human body, but the human body is solid, not clothing, not directly as clothing structure of the source, only as indirect source. Direct source is only as human dress basic reaction prototype pattern. The prototype pattern summarizes abstracts clothing structure of the general rules, form of expression, plane can be directly used for plane structure design. With this source, can solve the complicated problem.

Some say, learning prototype is the first lesson of the beginner clothing, this is true, from learning from the prototype of the basic began to learn, but learning prototype is not only an introduction to the subject, should also be want to further learners’ senior class, is greatly improve technology has been the important guarantee.

Establish reasonable system plate method

With what kind of method to board? Is stress to the “three-dimensional cutting” method, or focus on “plane cutting” method?

This is mainly a problem of knowledge.

The ultimate goal of board is a “flat pattern”. No matter be “three-dimensional cutting”, or “plane cutting”, is to achieve “plane pattern”. To this, the brand clothing company’s board method is worth us to learn from, and their general board process is like this:

The first step, according to the prototype made clothing plane pattern (through the preliminary pattern to obtain);

The second step, applied to planar pattern for cutting, then cutting piece to the human body model on combination sample, seam place can use pin don’t rise, edge combination edge adjustment (stereo cutting sample process);

The third step, then according to the adjustment of planar pattern amended (flat correction process);

The fourth step, the adjustment good pattern sent to sewing samples (test plate process);

The fifth step, to sewing good samples for evaluation, especially organization marketing and professional and technical personnel repeated review, amendment opinions (review holder process);

Step 6, according to the examination and approval opinions, once again about the pattern for correction, then may be after many sewing samples, multiple correction pattern, can obtain the final pattern (repeated review holder process);

Step 7, in order to facilitate the repair plate and convenient guide samples, the sewing played pattern generally can’t first and trimming, this no trimming template is called “sample”, once the final pattern to determine later, plus hemming formation galley proof to galley proof based on push plate, thus completing all pattern making work (push plate process).

Of course, some ordinary manufacturer board to simplify the process, often is the plane board after sewing samples directly into the process, and then after that the review is liquidated plate. But this is too simple program to create high-quality goods, not suitable for brand manufacturers.

From the board of the whole, the whole program is plane and three-dimensional combination of the process. In the actual board, some people may prefer made cutting method, some people may prefer plane method, it should be said that the two methods has its advantages and disadvantages. Draping although many people known as “magic cutting method”, but to models too much dependence and “quantity” hold on, and the difficulty of the high board cost make beginners flinch. Especially for the grasp of the model, there is no accurate model, made cutting accuracy is affected. And for the “model” to the movements of the clothing processing good, a lot of difficulty. Many of the market model, for commercial purpose to model the proportion of adjustment, and the real human body have certain differences, and some models didn’t join clad thickness (namely clad layers), belongs to the summer wear model, some model is spring and autumn outfit model, and some model is white model, model the standardization of production so far is not very strong, most models in used to modify a certain, that is, to use some cotton and lining, according to need to add in the model, form series, when use is very convenient. If you don’t pay attention to model provides modelling proportion, blindly pursue the so-called stereoscopic effect, it would be a mistake.

Of course the flat board methods also have some shortcomings, many experienced board division side in plane board, and imagine the three-dimensional modeling, the plate type can make very beautiful, is based on his plane and three-dimensional combination of results, but for human knowledge structure of the board, with plane party legal plate need a by the plane to the three-dimensional constantly sum up experience process, difficult to achieve a higher realm. Plane board must “mind stereo modelling” that can be used in the plane of the methods to solve the problem of solid, this is the most convenient way. If we can combine with solid sample, you will become more perfect board method.

To get a good plate type, not one-sided pursuit of “stereo” modelling, also can’t one-sided pursuit of “plane” sex, to deal with good “plane” and “stereo” relationship. Clothing is not stereo feeling the more the better, in fact, excessive pursuit of stereoscopic effect will damage the overall shape of the clothing. I have more than once to see some design by models put on a line still, but wear in the human body is appears very relaxed, “excessive stereo feeling” cause “structure relaxation”. Therefore, moderate “flat” contribute to the overall structure is compact harmony.

To sum up, clothing board is under the guidance of three-dimensional surface conversion process, “stereo” is human body image, “plane” pattern is the ultimate goal, “stereo” is based on, “plane” is the result. “Stereo” is the primary original, need “plane” dynamically reflects its regulation characteristics. And dynamically reflect can take “made cutting” method, also can use the method of plane, you will end up with flat sheet to reflect. But in recent years, rising “prototype system board” method, is a solid surface, which see the close contact of human body surface mapping technique, it can better the three-dimensional characteristics and plane drawing combined, in some degree, it can be said: prototype board method compared with other method is more perfect sex (the best fitting and solid combination).

Prototype board method of creating and perfect

The prototype is created from a representation of abstract general rules of the process, is too large and complicated work for a long time. Especially when creating the initial prototype, the body measurement survey is the basis of creating the prototype. Our country present stage is not complete in the sense of the prototype, but because and Japan belong to east Asia, especially close to human body, the Japanese cultural dress institute established cultural type clothing prototype spread to China, soon be clothing people accept, make our country traditional cutting technology was developed, and also greatly promote the our country clothing prototype of creating, and in our country on the basis of traditional cutting technology created many new cutting methods, such as mother type cutting, base type cutting, etc., and make our traditional chest degree type cutting method by old ratio method to new scaling method transformation.

In the process of change without gunsmoke, some people are accustomed to cling to the method, some people is to quickly change, thus appeared the different sounds, different point of view, all kinds of reflect different views of books emerge in endlessly, give the reader added joy, increased the window, but because of too many ideas to readers brought chaos, especially some authors do not fully discussed, its views not fully open, leaving a lot of doubt. So they have a lot of problem cannot be solved, make everyone in the search for the answer.

Why there are so many methods produce? Is nothing, it is because you are looking for the answer, everybody wants to well solve some problems already a long time of problem, so eager to discuss, but solve the problem from different perspectives, the starting point is different, thus inevitably produces different solutions.

First, is mainly affected by the traditional cutting method, we always want to pull the external made in China with the proportion of prototype cutting method, make the reform with Chinese characteristics cutting methods, so naturally they had a great deal of influence, so as to create a series of proportion cutting method, also emerged in some of the most achievements of mentors.

Second, suffer from prototype cutting method in the early period of the theory is insufficient, in the board process often appear way or another question, have to adaptations transformation, result is different, the processing method of adaptations have differences, so different point of view they generate, some are starting to question the experience mentors, doubt is created, this time it should be said that the countless rich fruits.

Third, some board division hurts in we don’t have their own clothing prototype, leave no stone unturned to create their own national prototype, has introduced some distinctive clothing basic plate type.

Fourth, there are some strange phenomenon, some people engaged in the clothing education for commercial purposes, in the clothing technology or punches, or intentionally complication, intends to make the garment technology is complicated and confusing, especially some personal in the recruitment of students propaganda in the degeneration of technique, detract from all the current board method, put forward some unproven “alternative” viewpoint, increased the technology of chaos.

No matter what to say, we don’t have their own “complete meaning” the real prototype, the prototype to create future efforts, to the attention of the countries. But although do not have their own clothing prototype, because the Japanese and Chinese human body is very close, we can use Japanese culture type prototype on board. In addition, no matter how to create, the prototype of the basic flat “forever” will be very close, Japanese culture type prototype create earlier than us, no matter what revised the place, we should also is called it “the Japanese culture type clothing prototype”, this is the human culture respect.

Japanese culture type prototype have new and old several versions. Old Japanese culture type prototype earlier due to appear, but now human body have different from the past human body, so old culture type prototype is the modern people to use, it is necessary to carry out a certain change, and the Japanese and Chinese human body of the human body is also different places, so when use must be different. We can’t for these natural changes and to give its take a Chinese name.

The new Japanese culture type prototype is accord with Japanese youth generation of human body new prototype, is also compared with the prototype of the modern Chinese figure, China’s clothing in the research has just started.

New and old culture type on the prototype. Old culture type prototype generality is strong, more accurately reflect the basic law of the clothing structure, very suitable for ordinary plate type of forging. New type prototype change old culture type prototype of the traditional style, according to the modern Japanese youth human characteristics, considered fit style characteristic and created a box prototype. The new and old culture type prototype because of forming the starting point is different, have very strong complementarity, and in the board each have different functions. Old culture type prototype because of generality is very strong, very agile use convenient, very popular love, and new type prototype increased archetypal fit structure model, but the structure is too complicated, and the Chinese traditional clothing structure method difference is bigger, must have a new board use method and adapt to the, once the master the method of use, its huge efficiency can play out. So, we are discussing at the moment, the use of the prototype is to discuss the old culture type prototype, and to study new type prototype, we must fully grasp the overall system prototype using method, and try to combined with the Chinese characteristics of the human body, make the Japanese culture type prototype is being used on have the Chinese themselves use characteristics, that is, to achieve the requirements of the Chinese.

Men’s wear, women’s wear board method of difference and contact

In the clothing industry has “male living” and “female live” don’t. Because men and women a different shape, different dress features; The second is due to the different requirements for work, set up process caused by differences.

And in board method of course is men’s clothing is the method of men’s wear, women’s dress is the structure.

First, the men’s wear reuse “left chest,” women’s reuse “provincial road”.

“Left chest” is the clothing pattern before cross open collar place partial into quantity, mainly by the influence of the human chest modelling, it mainly shape clothing chest model, and can make the garment chest full modelling. The more developed male body chest muscles, “left chest” quantity summary to increase, and to reduce. And the female body because milk XiongGu up, chest center (hereinafter referred to as “before”) place than milk point summon up, so, if use too much left chest, clothing front door opening place will be very relaxed, at the front door opening will cause to droop, the front door opening “gaps”.

“Provincial road” is edge contraction and the center plump a modelling, mainly used for shaping the three-dimensional modeling. Male body due to the chest is flat, if use provincial roads will make the garment chest rough, overall modelling will be destroyed. And women’s use of provincial roads, chest present stereo modelling, better accord with the women’s body characteristics, can make the garment structure is rigorous, symmetry, stabilize, and enhance the aesthetic feeling of clothing. So have “provincial road is women’s soul,” said.

For chest special summon up man, can add a collar province or chest waist province, for high body lady, can consider to use left chest. In addition, due to the clothing to accommodate underwear, underwear with thickness increase, the outer coat is more and more from the human body, underwear modification to hide the outline of human body, the female whole center place clothing block up, the first line get long, then can use a certain amount of left breast.

Second, the men and women clothing with different basic measures.

Men and women’s basic add measures depends on two aspects:

One is to be able to meet the needs of the body’s normal activities.

The human body is a moving body, motion bone in the flesh down move, generate a large deformation phenomenon, and in order to make the package in the outer layer of the clothing to adapt to this change, and the human body must have a certain activity space in order to meet the need of human body dynamic expansion.

The second is to be able to adapt to the men and women clothing their style characteristics.

Men’s clothing to natural and unrestrained stretch, dress to warm fit. The typical men’s clothing exquisite flat tinggua, elegant dress with soft lines. In this sense, the men and women clothing all have “tao”, each have each requirements, men have to use large amount of relax to reflect “flat” and “pretty” requirements, design only enough to meet the requirements and measures, and dress the smaller relax quantity appears capable beautiful, if the design is too loose, will lose women’s dress style.

Third, the men and women clothing plate profile drawing similarities and differences.

Because of men’s clothing and measures is bigger, dress not fitting, there is no need to make clothing profile was very gentle bending, and according to the men’s clothing rough and loose flat style, in the board of exquisite contour line of the upright and outspoken hale and hearty, board the lines in general to draw more smooth, in order to present the men’s clothing of atmospheric wind.

And fit dress structure must be trying to create “line feeling”, to highlight the female beautiful figure, do more properly the waist treatment, the change curve modelling, can fully reflect the female’s temperament characteristics.

In the women’s development process, the absorption male suit modelling created a female suit. Many women’s structure in developing absorb some of the men’s clothing design style characteristics, so that men and women clothing in the long-term development of mutual fusion, draw from each other and promote each other, men’s clothing modelling structure is stable, and dress is often can absorb some of the men’s clothing structure characteristics, in the design of some of the men’s clothing can inclusion style characteristics, this will make the structure of the women appear more distinctive.